The Complete Guide to Window Cleaning in Swadlincote, Tamworth, Burton, Ashby and Derby
I'm Lewis Wilkinson, and I run Wilkinson Property Pro from Linton, just outside Swadlincote. I clean windows for homeowners across South Derbyshire, Tamworth, Burton, Ashby and Derby, and I've done it long enough to have made most of the mistakes you can make in this trade.
This guide pulls together everything I've learned: how the different methods work, the problems I see on real jobs, what affects the price, and what you can safely do yourself. If you just want a quote, you can book one here. If you want to understand what you're paying for, read on.
What's in this guide
Why clean windows matter
Two ways to clean windows: water fed pole and traditional
The kit I use and why
Different windows, different problems
Frames, sills and the bits people forget
Why windows look wet after a water fed pole clean
How often should you have your windows cleaned?
What affects the price (and why cheapest isn't best)
What you can do yourself
Areas I cover
FAQs
Why clean windows matter
Clean windows make a house look cared for, and they let in more light. They also protect the property. Bird mess, bug splatter, organic growth and building residue don't just look bad. Left long enough, they bake onto the glass and into the frames and sills, and they get much harder to shift.
Regular cleaning also means problems get spotted early. When I'm up close to your frames and sills every few weeks, I notice things like tired paint on timber or seals starting to go before they turn into bigger bills.
Two ways to clean windows: water fed pole and traditional
There are two professional methods, and a good window cleaner should be able to do both. I do. I carry traditional kit on every job.
Water fed pole
A water fed pole is a lightweight extendable pole with a brush on the end, fed with purified water. The water has had the minerals filtered out, so it dries without leaving spots or streaks. I scrub with the brush, rinse with the pure water, and leave it to dry. There's no soap, and no wiping.
This is my main method, and the reason is simple. The finish lasts longer. Nothing is left on the glass, whereas traditional cleaning can leave a trace of soap that mixes with rain and brings the spots back faster. It's also safer, because I'm on the ground instead of on a ladder. And it cleans the frames and sills as well as the glass, not just the glass.
Traditional (squeegee and soap)
This is the classic method: soap, a squeegee and a cloth. It gets an instant finish and gives close control, which makes it the right choice in some situations.
On a recent Littleover job, the top-floor windows hadn't been cleaned in a long time, and the sills were thick with organic growth. The best access was climbing out of the third-floor window. With that much build-up, soap, dwell time, scrubbing and a squeegee was the right tool. The rest of the house was done with the water fed pole, because the access and window types suited it better.
I also often prefer to clean second-floor skylights from the inside, traditionally. Being close to angled glass gives better control, it's safer, and the result is usually better.
Which one is right for you?
Water fed pole | Traditional | |
Best for | Most homes, regular cleans, upper floors | Heavily soiled glass, awkward access, skylights, inside windows |
Finish | Longer-lasting, nothing left on the glass | Instant, but soap residue can bring back spots after rain |
Safety | Stays on the ground | Often needs ladders or climbing |
Cleans frames and sills | Yes, as part of the process | Needs extra work |
I'll always recommend what's best for your windows, and that's sometimes a mix of both on the same job.
The kit I use and why
The right equipment makes a visible difference, and it's also what protects your property.
Gardiner SLX carbon fibre pole. It's light but rigid, which gives me great control, even on high or awkward windows.
Gardiner pure water backpack. I've tried van-fed systems. The long hoses snag on cars, brickwork and plant pots, and I don't get that with the backpack. It also gives me more control over how much water I use.
Sill brush. This is the most useful brush I own. The soft inner bristles are gentle enough for fragile single pane and leaded windows. The stiff outer edge bristles dig into corners to clear spider nests and scrub off hard marks.
6-inch and 10-inch squeegees. Between them they cover most domestic windows.
Scrim and microfibre cloths. The scrim soaks up dirty water, and a clean microfibre cloth finishes the details.
Scraper and 0000 grade steel wool. These are for stubborn marks like paint splatter, adhesive, bird mess and hard water staining. They need skill, so they're a last resort, and I'd never suggest a homeowner reaches for them.
Different windows, different problems
Every property throws up something different. These are real jobs I've done.
Old wooden sash windows (Shardlow)
Single pane windows in wooden sash frames are delicate. The glass is thin, and too much pressure can crack it. Sash windows also have narrow channels where dust and spider webs collect, and in rural spots like Shardlow the spiders love them.
For these I use the soft side of the sill brush, which spreads the pressure evenly across the glass and gets into the channels. Pure water is a great choice because it needs no harsh chemicals that could strip paint or damage the wood. Timber frames also rarely spot after a water fed pole clean, because there's no rubber seal for water to hide behind.
New windows after building work (Ashby)
After a renovation, new windows are often covered in fine dust, silicone smears and leftover sticker or film residue. I inspect each window first, then work in stages. Dust comes off first, then I deal with the stubborn marks using gentle products and non-abrasive tools, so the glass doesn't get scratched.
If you're having work done, let the dust settle for a few days before cleaning. And please don't attack silicone or stickers with anything harsh. Left on, they can damage seals and glass over time.
Cobwebs and spider nests, plus awkward windows (Stenson Fields)
Spider nests are hydrophobic and stuck deep into the frame, so wiping doesn't shift them. The stiff edge of the sill brush flicks them out of the corners. On this job there was also a window high above a conservatory that a ladder couldn't reach safely. The water fed pole could, from the ground, with no risk to the roof.
Balustrades, bird mess and bug marks (Melbourne)
In more rural areas the birds and insects are relentless. Bird mess hardens fast, and bug splatter bakes on and leaves oily marks. The process is to pre-soak, scrape gently with a proper blade, scrub lightly and rinse with pure water. On this particular job some windows even sat below floor grates, so I held the grates open and reached down with the pole. In Melbourne I clean on an 8-week cycle, which keeps everything fresh and makes each visit easier.
Frames, sills and the bits people forget
Clean glass in a dirty frame looks wrong. Webs, dust and green growth on frames and sills are some of the first things you notice, and they're often what people actually mean when they say their windows look dirty.
The water fed pole is good at this, because the brush and pure water clean the frames and sills while I'm doing the glass. If you want tracks and extra detailing done on top, say so when you book, as it can add to the time.
Why windows look wet after a water fed pole clean
This surprises a lot of new customers. The windows look spotless, then they stay wet for a while. That's normal. The pure water leaves no residue as it dries, so you won't get marks.
Drying time depends on the weather, the angle of the glass and how much water the job needed. Expect roughly 10 to 30 minutes. In cool, humid weather it takes longer, and on a warm, breezy day it's quicker. If you see spots or streaks afterwards, it's usually leftover residue from a previous cleaner or dust settling on the glass, so tell me and I'll sort it.
How often should you have your windows cleaned?
It depends on where you live and what your windows are exposed to. Rural properties with lots of birds and insects need more frequent visits, which is why my Melbourne customers are on a regular 8-week cycle. Properties near busy roads collect traffic film faster.
Regular cleaning is easier and cheaper than one-off deep cleans. A neglected window with built-up growth, like the Littleover job, takes far more time and effort than one cleaned on a schedule. Sometimes we will recommend 4 weekly if the conditions are bad but we will alwasy leave it to the customer to decide between 4 or 8 weekly.
What affects the price (and why cheapest isn't best)
Here's what drives the price of window cleaning:
Size and number of windows, plus the shape. Bay windows, skylights and many-paned windows take longer.
Access and height. Upper floors, conservatory roofs, or windows behind fences and trees need more time or different kit.
How dirty they are. A first clean after a long gap or building work costs more than a regular visit.
Frequency. Regular customers usually pay less per visit, because the windows are easier to keep clean.
Extras. Tracks, sills, hard water stain removal and other add-ons.
Equipment, experience and insurance. These cost money, and they're what protects your property.
I'll be honest about something. I used to be the cheapest window cleaner in my area. I always did a good job, but rushing from window to window to make the low prices work nearly broke me, and the business couldn't survive it. Very low prices usually mean rushed work, cut corners, or a business that won't be around next year. Now I charge a fair price, so I can take the time to do it properly and still be there when you need me.
When comparing quotes, ask about the method, whether they're insured, what's included and what isn't, and check their reviews.
What you can do yourself
I'm happy to share what's safe for homeowners to do between visits. There's no gatekeeping here.
Brush spider webs off frames and sills with a soft brush, and check windows monthly.
For ground-floor glass, a mix of water and a little mild washing-up liquid, removed with a good squeegee, gets windows clean at home.
Let dust settle for a few days after building work before cleaning.
Avoid scrapers and steel wool unless you know exactly how to use them. They can scratch glass.
Never go up a ladder for upper windows you can't reach safely. That's what the pole is for.
With timber windows, have them checked every few years for rot or paint deterioration, since exposed wood attracts pests.
Areas I cover
I'm based in Swadlincote and cover:
Derby, including Littleover, Stenson Fields, Shardlow and Melbourne
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to be home?
For outside cleaning with the water fed pole, usually not, as long as I can reach the windows. I will message the day before a visit and as long as gates are open or instructions are left for acess around the home then all windows can be cleaned.
Is pure water really chemical free?
Yes. The water is filtered so it has no minerals, and it cleans without detergents. That's also better for plants, pets and your frames.
Will you damage my old or single pane windows?
No. I use the soft side of the sill brush with light pressure for delicate glass, wooden sashes and leaded windows.
Why do my windows look wet after cleaning?
It's the pure water, which dries spot-free. Allow 10 to 30 minutes depending on the weather.
Can you clean after building work?
Yes. I remove dust, silicone smears and sticker residue in stages, without scratching the glass.
Do you clean skylights and conservatory windows?
Yes. Sometimes from the ground with the pole, and sometimes from the inside with traditional methods, whichever gives the best and safest result.
How much does it cost?
It depends on the size, access and condition of your windows. Prices are on the window cleaning page.
Do you do other exterior cleaning?
Yes, see below.
Beyond windows
Clean windows look best on a clean property. I also offer gutter cleaning, pressure washing, roof cleaning, brick cleaning and tarmac sealing, so one visit can sort several jobs.
Get a quote
If you'd like your windows cleaned properly by someone who'll explain exactly what they're doing and why, get in touch or call 07948 605317. I'll recommend whatever method is best for your property, even if that's not the quickest one.
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